Showing posts with label green building. Show all posts
Showing posts with label green building. Show all posts

Thursday, September 9, 2010

Dancing Rabbit

Earlier this month I had the opportunity to visit an intentional community along the eco-village vein called Dancing Rabbit.

http://www.dancingrabbit.org

They are located in rural northeast Missouri near two other communities. They are committed to creating an alternative to main stream consumer culture. The use of fossil fuels is discouraged as well as new building materials. Here are some pictures of straw bale houses they have built out of local materials and reclaimed lumber.



Thursday, August 19, 2010

Summer update

It didn't seem like much was getting done but I was wrong.

In July I took a 2 day class on straw bale construction. It was by the same teacher that taught the natural finishes class and although she has a lot of experience and is good with sharing it I was much happier about the hands on the other class had. The class used to be 3 day and losing a day was noticed. We did get to tour some pretty cool houses in various stages of construction.




Then the last of the siding was fixed. It doesn't look like much here but it is a vast improvement. Now the house can be painted. There was also an issue with the gutter that was leaking water back behind the soffit. I'm pretty sure the cause has been located and some flashing should fix the issue.





There is a curve in the transition between the kitchen tile and living room floor. This means that there is no way to buy a transition strip. The first thing that had to be done was that I had to make a decent router table. The straight pieces were pretty easy and although I've got to redo one that is too short they are essentially ready for varnish. The curved piece is a whole nother story. Probably should be it's own post once it is complete.





Some fun was had too. Got to go on two hikes so far this year. I'm looking forward to the kid getting old enough to come along. Next year or the year after?

Saturday, January 9, 2010

Midway

It has been a while since I posted progress. I was waiting for something complete to post but that just isn't happening until the weather improves. Next week should be in the mid forties so something might happen. Here are a couple of unfinished projects in the mean time.

In the summer compost breaks down pretty quick and a 5 gallon bucket lasted most of the summer. Then it started getting cold and I just had to come up with a better solution. First stop was craigslist.org, 2 steel 55 gallon drums for $30.


I cut a hole in the top about 12" x 12" and then cut out a larger piece from scrap sheet metal that was in my garage. Added some hinges and a latch that were from old cabinets that I cleaned up years ago and put some old paint on for a finishing touch. Sometimes it pays to never throw anything away. Also drilled some holes in the sides to let gases escape. I've a plan for pvc pipe with holes drilled in it to help get air to the compost, it's still a half baked plan though.


Mixing compost so that air gets in speeds the breakdown process and prevents anaerobic bacteria from creating methane gas. The next step is a frame to hold the drum on a pivot to make turning it easy. A few years ago I made a trebuchet and it was fun to play with but time to move on so the frame from the trebuchet will now be the frame for a compost turner.


The base will need new cross beams since the drum is much wider than the throwing arm was. Since trebuchets were medieval siege weapons I went with the old school carpentry and didn't use any glue or nails. That means that making new cross beams takes time and needs warmer weather. It is a simple enough process though. Drill two holes that are the width and distance of the tenon, as seen in the picture, then chisel out the middle. Drill a hole for the peg and then insert peg.


I saw a number of compost turners with plastic drums on the internet and it just doesn't seem like the plastic would hold up. In fact it doesn't seem like the steel will hold up so I reinforced the hole with a 3/4" washer that fits the 1/2" conduit pipe with a little to spare, I would feel better if the washer was welded on. 1/2" conduit seems like it is just barely strong enough, I wanted to start with something thicker but then I would of had to fabricate a reinforcement and it was cold in the garage. Why haven't I spent more time putting up the insulation and drywall in the garage? After putting up a 4x8 sheet of 1/2" drywall by myself on a 10' ceiling I decided to wait till warmer days and recruit some help. Anyway, the base will have wheels on one end to help move around the yard but also to aid in swapping out the drum. Once it is done the non-wheeled end can be upended to place the drum on the ground top up. Then the axle can be slid out and the frame wheeled over to a new drum where the axle gets put back in. More on that later.



The other project is earthen plaster. My yard is mostly clay and clay is a main ingredient in earth plaster but not all clays make good plaster material. There are some easy and basic tests that can be done to find out what properties a clay has.


This first test is to put some dirt in a glass jar with some water and shake it up. Then set the jar down for 24-48 hours and take a look. The sediment in the jar will give a rough idea of how much sand, clay and silt is in the dirt. The bottom will be sand, then silt and finally clay. This is almost pure clay. Sand will have to be added to make an earth plaster.



The next test is to make a box to test shrinkage. Some clay will shrink a lot when it dries and some hardly at all. My area is know for it's bentonite clay which expands and shrinks considerably with moisture and is a poor clay for plaster. This was some scrap maple from the kitchen cabinets and a couple of coats of varnish. There is currently mud drying out in it, since it is so cold it might be a few days before I know what kind of clay I have. As long as the clay shrinks less than 15% it should work for plaster. The test box is 20 centimeters long which comes out to about 5/8" maximum shrinkage.

Plaster recipes have anywhere between 2 parts sand to 1 part clay to 4 parts sand. Really it depends on the clay and the quality of the sand, river and beach sand should be avoided. To find the right mixture start on the low end and keep adding sand, take notes. Two things should happen when the right mixture is found. One is if you take some of the mud mix and roll it into a cigar shape, 1/2"ish round by 5"ish long and slowly push it off of your hand. If it crumbles falls apart add more clay. If it breaks about halfway you have a good mixture. If it doesn't break and just curls as it is pushed off of your hand then add more sand. Another test is to roll a half a handful into a ball and let it dry. If it easily disintegrates then add clay. If it takes pressure to break and crumble it is probably good. If you can't break it with your fingers then the mix probably needs more sand. It should also be mentioned that less water is better, add just enough to make the material workable.

The goal is to build a green house in the back yard out of earth plaster and then coat the outside in lime plaster. Really it depends on how long we will stay here though. It is fun to play with in the mean time though.

Monday, September 21, 2009

Distractions

Nothing has been done on the house lately because I just spent three days doing something much cooler. The pictures are from a 3 day class called Natural Finishes. The class went over interior and exterior building finishes. Day one (and picture 1) earthen finishes. Earthen finishes are basically clay, sand and water. Straw, animal hair, cotton tails, etc. can be added as filler and to improve the structural qualities. My yard is mostly clay so I'm looking forward to making a greenhouse or cold frames covered in this. Day two (and picture 2) covered lime plasters. Lime plasters are similar to what you can find in most houses for drywall but have some additional qualities and some drawbacks. The biggest drawback in my mind is the cure time which can be several months for a thick coat, only a few days though to get painted or plastered over. An earthen finish coat covered in a thin lime plaster makes a durable exterior finish. Day three (and picture 3) covered paint like finishes. From milk based casein paint and clay based coatings that can be made at home to commercial products that can be ordered.


On the left the underlying earth coat can be seen and on the right is a topping earth coat with some iron oxide for color. The middle is a lime wash, also known as a white wash.




This is a lime plaster with a thin coat of pigmented water added before the outside of the lime cures. That is how frescoes are made.




This is a small square of sheet rock with a clay based paint.